Egads! Improvement!
Jun. 3rd, 2008 02:59 pmHoly shit. Something must have taken over the past couple weeks, climbing-wise.
To recap, on Thursday at Wiscon I went top-roping with
matociquala,
truepenny, and
cristalia. That was pretty awesome, and the ropes really help with the panic response. Last Friday I checked out south gym, where one might rope if one had a belay partner. Having no partner, I messed around on their bouldering routes and noticed that my mid-route panic seemed to have eased. I also ripped off a partially-formed callus. That was exciting.
So today I went back to my regular bouldering gym (with my torn-up hand taped like a mummy), and promptly proceeded to re-send my first route like a-- Well, not like a monkey. Maybe an arthritic monkey with a fat ass. But I sent it quickly. Then I made more progress on the overhang V.0 I've been flirting with. Then I sent a new V.0 that I couldn't even start two weeks ago. (Most of it is vertical and easy, but there's an overhang at the bottom that I couldn't haul myself over before now.) And I got myself up another V.0 much higher than I've been able to get before. And then panicked. But I got down again. The only problem with using top-roping to get over the heights and falling is that then I have the urge to just fall when I get stuck bouldering. And not so much a great idea there.
And there are two more V.0s I can start now, but they have slippery foot-holds I'm not crazy about. I might have to move up to a new color one of these days.
To recap, on Thursday at Wiscon I went top-roping with
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So today I went back to my regular bouldering gym (with my torn-up hand taped like a mummy), and promptly proceeded to re-send my first route like a-- Well, not like a monkey. Maybe an arthritic monkey with a fat ass. But I sent it quickly. Then I made more progress on the overhang V.0 I've been flirting with. Then I sent a new V.0 that I couldn't even start two weeks ago. (Most of it is vertical and easy, but there's an overhang at the bottom that I couldn't haul myself over before now.) And I got myself up another V.0 much higher than I've been able to get before. And then panicked. But I got down again. The only problem with using top-roping to get over the heights and falling is that then I have the urge to just fall when I get stuck bouldering. And not so much a great idea there.
And there are two more V.0s I can start now, but they have slippery foot-holds I'm not crazy about. I might have to move up to a new color one of these days.